1) Amperordirect.com has now begun selling security systems. They seem to have settled on the Aposonic line of products although I have heard more is coming. As you may know, amperor is the distributor that BOCS uses so I’m particularly happy about having another cool product line that fits so well with the BOCS product. I’ve written extensively on the Aposonic line and amperor has taken all that material and put it up in the form of training materials on their website – so I’m kind of a guest lecturer over there – go check it out. http://www.amperordirect.com

2) I’ve begun a support program both for BOCS  folks using PC based DVRs as well as helping Amperor out with security system setups using remote PC control from Teamviewer. Long story short, that is the best PC remote access package I’ve ever seen – and because I speak nicely about them, they gave me a coupon code that saves a few percent off the cost of the package – just use coupon code  74287-28-576549 when buying anything from their site.

More soon – Dave

This all started because modulators, in general, have died as a method of distributing security video around the home/office. That is because most cable-tv systems have gone digital – meaning there is no longer room to insert a simple modulated signal in the “lineup” without losing a LOT of the channels you use everyday. Most folks are not willing to give up ESPN or HBO to get their security cameras home-wide.

Enter BOCS – we provide a new way of getting that video home-wide that does not interfere with existing cable – There is a long explanation elsewhere in this blog but bottom line is that if you are installing a security system, BOCS is a crucial element (and allows me to dive into seemingly peripheral topics like this.)

On to the Installation:

I chose an Aposonic R22 8 channel H.264 DVR – for a lot of reasons – most will be outlined below. I found a local Church that needed security and was willing to let me spend a week there getting the system set up, so this goes through step by step every aspect of the planning and installation.

The FULL text can be had by signing up for the eBook on our SECURITY PAGE, but I’ve put the first few sections here to give you an idea.

Also – if you are a commercial installer, take a look at our COMMERCIAL PAGE for more information.

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Aposonic R22 Review and Commercial Installation

Installation Overview:

A Church in Longmont, CO

5 cameras (soon to be 6) each distinctly different in location and application – part two of the review will include details on each camera, why each was chosen for the particular application and how well each works given the requirements

An 8 channel Aposonic R22 DVR –

Local and remote access (via computer as well as cell phone)

1000 feet of cabling and a lot of sweat

Note that when I ordered this system, I specifically ordered one of each of 4 distinctly different cameras so as to evaluate each type. Now that the system is set up and the differences are well understood I would order more of some types and less of others – more on that in part 2 (to be published soon)

Initial impressions:

• DVR unit is solid, has well labeled (intuitive) buttons, and excellent connectors
• Each camera was well packaged in the box – little chance of shipping damage
• All required cables are included (although labeling needs improvement) – AND cables were of adequate length (60ft each) to cover a standard installation.
• A single large power supply with a cable splitter was included – very nice to allow less outlet space at the DVR site
• DVR was exceptionally “light” – turns out you have to specify a hard drive/size. Luckily I had a spare 80GB drive laying around and fixed that quickly.

Physical Installation:

Normally this would not be part of a review, but as this is a specific commercial installation it seems appropriate.

Requirements – seems like a simple enough thing, start throwing cameras up and plug them all back in to the DVR – but hold on, a little planning (actually a lot) goes a long way.

Things to pre-plan:

Goals: Is it to monitor entrances real time during the day, monitor secure areas for unusual activities, provide later proof of illegal activities (each of these determines different camera locations and types). If you want a camera to actually create an alarm it needs to be inside the secure area so false alarms do not occur etc…

Day/Night applications: Consider up front what kind of a view each camera will have in day and night – will the sun be right in the lens, what will be the throw of the built in IR LEDs, Which way should each camera face

Camera positioning: Is there enough room to get a wide enough shot and/or zoomed in enough to capture good enough images to identify people – are the cameras visible enough to deter some behaviors but hidden enough in others to catch those same issues

DVR location: Central enough to keep wiring runs to a minimum but in a secure location – if a thief can get the DVR there will be no evidence and the whole thing was a waste

Monitoring: The perfect addition to a security system is BOCS – running a single COAX from the DVR location to the monitoring location (reception or security area) allows both full monitoring and control while not jeopardizing the security of the DVR by having it located out in the open.

Local codes: Some states/municipalities now require proper licensing even for low voltage installations like security – frankly it has nothing to do with safety or security, just another way the government can get a few more dollars out of your pocket, nevertheless – follow the rules. Keep in mind that commercial applications are much more stringent and frequently require even special cables rated for above ceiling applications.

Cabling: You absolutely must plan out each and every run before you set anything in stone. How will each wire get from the DVR to the camera location. If you are going more than 100’, consider powering the camera remotely and running only video cable (RG6 coax works well for longer runs and ends are simple to get). Suspended ceilings are a blessing if present and normally prevent a lot of drilling.

Camera Types (Will cover in detail in a later section): Consider for each location how much IR light you need, how wide of an angle you need, and how much quality you need. For small spaces that just cover a single door don’t buy the $200 camera. For an outdoor application covering a large area at night, spend the money required or the image you record will do you no good later. Consider ceiling mount dome varifocal lens cameras for most indoor and hallway applications to maximize each camera’s usefulness. This sounds trite, but don’t buy more or less quality than you need – plan, plan, plan.

Actual Installation:

You will normally find that a good installation will be 15% planning – walk the site multiple times, find out from the customer (even if that is your wife) exactly what they want and need, plan each camera and each cable run – 60% running cables, 10% programming and setup, and 15% cleanup/tidying/training.

Specific considerations:

• For pre-terminated cables provided with cameras – many (if not most) must be installed in a specific direction – one end is male and the other female. If you get it backward (speaking now from brutal experience), you will either need to pull it out and start over or go down to the electronics store and buy expensive male-male and female-female adapters for each end and your error will be immortalized.
• For any run over 100’ consider ditching the normal provided wires (that include a video and power cable bundled together) and just running a single coax for video back from the camera location. If you do this (to keep video quality as high as possible) make sure you get the proper adapters (Coax-F female to BNC-male) and find a way at each camera location to power the camera. Note that outlets in ceilings are generally against code. If there is not a convenient (and secure – you wouldn’t want a potential thief pulling power from your camera) and within-code method of locally powering the camera – make sure you run a power cord all the way back to the DVR location.
• If you have a lot of unused Cat5 ports wired back to a central location, there are excellent balun systems that allow running both audio/video as well as camera power over those same wires. Consider an On-Q system (more on this later)
• Consider a full week test before the system is permanently put on line – connections can be tested, motion detection perfected, and remote access tweaked before you give a lot of people access
• Do not plug your DVR into your home/office Ethernet until you have properly configured its network settings – failure to do this can take a whole network down (yep experience again :0)
• Running over suspended ceilings? A 15’ sectional fiberglass rod (available at Home Depot nationwide) for about $35 is an excellent tool to keep you from having to remove every other ceiling panel – now only every 5^th one… Another option is a small crossbow – most electrical suppliers sell small plastic ones with a nifty fishing reel line attached, but I got a “semi-toy” one from an online shop that shoots metal tipped plastic darts (around which can be tied lead-line or mason’s twine) – It is strong enough to shoot across almost 50’ of ceiling and stick in drywall on the other side… Everything has risk, but you are adults – use your own judgment not mine.

This specific installation – detailed layout:

As you can see from the floorplan below, while there are many outside access locations, there are some clear security “softspots” that needed to be addressed. Most specifically, the office staff is located in a central location with no view of the rest of the building – no idea of who is coming in toward the office, or even if they veer off to another part of the building, and at night there are some clear blind spots not visible from the street that periodically attract “campers”. It would be good to know if anyone is in one of those blind spots before one heads to ones car after dark.

So… specific goals and location map(follow along):

1) Receptionist needs to be able to see who is coming in the front and back doors, needs to be able to see that anyone coming in heads to the office and not into any other part of the building

2) Motion detect recording of office area (not triggered by normal office personnel if possible) and main entrances

3) Remote viewing of the auditorium (both for security – lots of electronics in there) as well as running that same feed through a BOCS system to allow remote viewing of any service in progress from anywhere in the building (more on this in a later chapter as well)

4) Simple remote viewing from any computer if the receptionist is not at their post – in these cases, a simple motion alarm (kind of door-bell like) is preferable for anyone coming or going out of the monitored entrances

Locations:

1 – Office

2 – Main entrance

3 – Main hall

4 – Back door

5 – Side door

6 – Auditorium

Location Details…

1 – Office reception:

What/Why – Kind of like a “point-of-sale” camera at a bank, this is the primary camera that is visible to all coming into the office (they know they are on camera – actually very important), and the key need here is quality during the day. IR illumination is not necessary here as this is primarily a daytime usage area, and there is an always on security light providing nighttime illumination.

Camera – Initially, I chose the smaller camera XXX, but after installation realized the quality was not adequate enough so I switched to an On-Q bulletcam – exceptional daytime quality and easily recognizable as what it is without being intrusive

Cabling – within 50’ of the DVR so used one of the included cables run in the ceiling

Monitoring – Ran a single COAX to feed a flat screen 15” TV for monitoring at the security area – a BOCS remote provides full control and is Velcro-ed under the desk for easy access.

2 – Front entrance:

What/Why – For now, viewing of everyone coming and going through the main entrance doors (glass) and future use to identify who is there to buzz them in during off hours.

Camera – All exterior lights in this area are on photocells so they come on at night, but in the event of a power outage, IR self-illumination is required here (DVR is on a large UPS in case of power outage). Quality is important, but due to the relatively close quarters – 6-20’ viewing range, even a lower end camera is adequate.

Cabling – as this location is about 150’ from the DVR, a single COAX was run in the ceiling and power for the camera was pulled from a wall wart transformer in a nearby closet.

3 – Main Hallway:

What/Why – Within a second of leaving the view of the entrance camera, you appear on this hallway cam giving the receptionist more of an idea of who is approaching as well as having full visibility of all possible directions from the entrance.

Camera – Quality is important, but more so is the ability to have a specifically chosen width of view and focus. Night vision is important here as well as the security lights are not in the direct field of view of this camera. Quality at 30’ is important as this camera covers two computers.

Cabling – within 80’ of DVR so included cabling was used – simple

4 – Back Entrance:

What/Why – This is actually what started it all, as there is a large picnic area/open area that is completely invisible from the street. It also happens to be the main parking area for staff and presents a safety hazard as there are lots of places not visible until you have already exited the building and locked the door.

Camera – Need a long reach, excellent night viewing, and good quality to cover such a large area. This is probably the most difficult camera application of them all. My initial note was to budget high for this particular camera as the requirements are stiff. Mounting location was also critical as during summer, the trees in this area block a lot of the view.

5 – Side entrance:

What/Why – Seldom used during the week but the furthest entrance from the main street, monitoring this entrance is mostly for safety.

Camera – The small entryway is cramped and at night it is pitch black so IR illumination is a must. During the week, this camera can be put in alarm mode as any activity there is unusual.

Cabling – At about 200’ from the DVR, running a single RG6 coax and locally powering the camera is the best choice. A janitor’s closet provides an excellent power point, and one long hallway was begging for my crossbow.

6 – Auditorium:

What/Why – This one, uniquely, has three uses – security of course, there is sound equipment in there that needs to be protected – remote monitoring, nice to have the picture available in a few of the offices so ministers know when they need to head over there – and overflow, A good view and audio from the auditorium feeding a BOCS unit provides full A/V to a variety of TVs mounted around the facility.

Camera – Quality is the key – night vision only necessary within 10’ of the camera for the security aspect, but also need audio brought back to the DVR location

Cabling – Due both to quality concerns and the need for audio, an On-Q bulletcam was again used here run over cat6 cable plus a coax for a single channel of audio.

Pastor’s Office:

No camera here – bad form normally to put cameras in people’s private offices, but a simplified viewing location was a priority. An attempt to keep the usage model simple meant not requiring computer use but some kind of dedicated monitor. Again the On-Q monitor was a good fit – it can handle a selection of two cameras and can easily be switched off. It is small enough to fit on a desk and not appear as if the minister is in charge of security – he can help watch out for the office ladies as he is in the office more than any other and can see the auditorium as well.

Currently available on Newegg for between $219 and $269

Why review this item?

Primarily because it is currently the lowest cost security DVR available and many have been wondering if it worked and whether it would accomplish their goals. Turns out it is also a good opportunity to see how one of these DVRs works and the various options and features available.

Out of the Box experience:

Good packaging – this is the first device that has ever come “fully wrapped – in fact vacuum sealed. Packaging was in normal Styrofoam – and it all appeared “safe” – which is all you are really looking for. First impression was that there was an unusually small amount of documentation – everything must be on the CD?

8 Channels for around $200 is a great deal almost no matter what quality it really records or what the UI looks like, but let’s dive in, starting with the hardware and contents:

The CD

– what can I say except that the first impression is that I’m in trouble – no label of any kind – someone just bought generic cd-r discs, burned them, and threw them in the package. OK a little leniency because of the price point, but for the extra $.02 they could have at least labeled it to look professional:

Rest of the contents – looks good – I really like external power supplies – gives me maximum cord control and keeps some of the heat away from the rest of my components – check!

Simple Remote control – well laid out and English is all correct – check!

Very nice front and back panels – well laid out, controls as well as lights are easy to see and understand and it all matches the remote. Inputs and outputs on the rear panel are also well laid out and easy to read.

The alarm input/output is also industry standard, so anyone that has ever purchased a DVR will immediately recognize the layout.

Very nice to have a mechanical power switch as well as both VGA and S-Video outputs. Note that this particular DVR has the option of 720p out – seemingly pointless given security camera resolutions, but nice to have the option nonetheless.

My first mechanical issue, however, was that the front panel came partially detached – it appeared to be snapped on, but regardless of what angle or pressure I applied, it would not snap back on. Upon closer examination, it appears that it is actually screwed on with two small plastic straps that both broke in transit. Having done a considerable amount of mechanical engineering recently on BOCS, I can say with authority that this particular attachment system is highly flawed – the strength of these particular straps is clearly not adequate to securely hold on the faceplate in transit. My plan is to simply glue it in place later – it is imperative that it be secure since the DVR will be controlled by buttons on the faceplate.

Moving on to internals:

500GB hard drive included – SATA – and a WD at that.

It is interesting that the VGA output is laid out as if it were an option – a small plug in card that sits over the main board – not sure why – VGA seems like the industry standard for dedicated DVRs although in a home application, composite video and network control are beginning to dominate. Only concerning thing is that the video encode chip only has a stick on heat sync with a body fan that does not even blow directly on it. So, either this is going to be some not so great video or heat will be a long term issue – stay tuned.

Functionality:

Boot: fast – approximately 20 seconds from power to video display. Irritating that the alarm buzzer sounds for a bit while booting, but after hooking up a couple cameras and applying power, I immediately got video. As you can see, it comes up by default in full grid mode (to a monitor plugged into composite video out right next to the DVR) – that is my basement and upstairs living room on cameras 1 and 2.

Video quality locally is pretty good – small window, tiled, but all the features can be made out – keep in mind this is local video and pre-compressed though.

This means that as a simple tiler, it is doing well. It can easily be hooked into the BOCS system and whole-home security cameras on every TV is merely one wire away. It will be great to be able to see the front door, 4 or 5 rooms, and a couple pics of the backyard all on one screen on my 50” plasma and the bedroom TV simultaneously. CHECK!!

UI:

A collection of UI captures are below – overall, not bad. Everything is intuitive and fast to set up. IP address and all the network details are easily set up from the remote control. Frankly, better than most US companies. I’m impressed.

Even the motion detection screen is straightforward – you go to any particular camera view, place the cursor in the top left of the area you want to select for motion detection, hit select, then move it to the bottom right corner of the preferred area and hit select again – the system draws a nice box for your motion detection area. Simple, yet in many applications you have unusual or multiple areas on screen you want to detect – My favorite is a grid system where you get a nicely gridded selection on screen and you select any area(s) on screen you want to detect. This is especially helpful when you want to exclude specific moving things but include many other distinct areas on screen. So a + for simplicity, but a big – for flexibility.

Dynamic DNS!!

Motion Detection “Block” selection

One more note on functionality – something not well documented, at least on the newegg site: This DVR supports Dynamic DNS – and can be set up right from the remote control.

DDNS is a nice little system that will let you get to this DVR from the internet even if you are a Comcast subscriber and your IP address changes every day. It maintains a link with a free outside service and allows you to set your own domain name and assign it to the dynamic IP of your broadband connection. Very nice. Normally, you have to run this on another PC in the house, but for standalone applications, this makes everything easier.

The PC application:

Initial installation is straightforward and comes with both a real application and an active-x control so you can access the DVR from any web browser. Within, seconds, again, it was at least up and running.

Right off the bat, though, a few problems:

1) You have to manually connect every time you open it or switch to the viewer from the DVR function and re-enter the password. It would be really nice to have some way to save the password at least. Picky? Perhaps.

2) Controls basically mimic the remote control – you cannot click on the menu/popups onscreen – this is basically just a pipe of the video output and a relay of the remote control. This makes things easy to understand but a pain to control. Pressing right 6 times to enter a password seems a real pain given that I have a mouse and keyboard (neither of which is recognized)

3) DVR playback controls – none are functional – unless you install the right player – there are 4 included on the CD with no instruction as to how to choose the right one.

4) Playback is straightforward as long as you choose not to record all the time and rely just on motion detection. Then when you playback it only displays the camera where motion was detected and only for the motion duration plus the delay (I had 10 seconds set) – nice but a couple of skip buttons would have made finding the events much easier. Poor interface on this one.

5) Stabilty – Out of the box, the unit (mine anyway) was completely unstable. It would lock up and reboot almost every time it began a recording (motion detection or manual). I solved this by reformatting the hard drive. It apparently does a quick format as it only took about 30 seconds, but that solved all stability issues.

Video Quality:

For network connection as well as DVR recording, the system uses motion jpeg – not the best encode type, but with good cameras and putting record quality on high (no problem with motion detection and a 500GB drive) it is good enough to catch a good pic of that intruder. License plates, for instance, might be tough to pick out without careful camera aiming, and good lighting.

For a basic system, this is about the best you are going to get under $500. In fact, the next better quality system I’ve seen runs in the $1500 range. I would say that meeting expectations

Whole-Home distribution:

My next step was to route the video signals home-wide so I could see all the cameras on any TV. The BOCS system is ideal for that – with composite video output right from the DVR as well as the DVR being capable of receiving IR signals, it allows whole home viewing AND control (so I can scroll back and see intruder events from any TV. )

General qualifier here, I work for a company that distributes the BOCS system although I would have used it regardless…

The hookup is pretty simple, BOCS takes composite video in (you need a BNC to RCA adapter) and the system comes with a little stick-on IR emitter that attaches to the front of the DVR so the BOCS remotes can control it.

So, the end result is all the cameras on every TV in the house – here is the resulting picture displayed on my 50” plasma – note that for this review I only have two of the cameras hooked up. Unfortunately, my camera does not seem to be able to capture a good (non-washed out) picture of the plasma screen, but the quality is really good. I’m headed to put the other 6 cameras up this week.

I’ve had an HDX-1000 for a long time, and if you’ve read previous posts/reviews, you will recall my findings that it has an exceptional Codec list and can play perhaps the largest set of media out there. Combined with a decent online experience and both SD and HD capabilities, it has been at the top of its class for a long time.  My gripes, however, have been a lack of BluRay support, a less than navigable UI, and a lack of streaming online service (the latter is perhaps not fair since I’m asking for the box to be more than what it was intended).

Now – comes the HDX-BD1. — Frankly, a huge improvement, with a few issues, but a definite upgrade.

I’ll do a full review and post on AVS next week, but a few notes here so yall can go take a look at it.

The new system has:

• Full BD support – once ripped, a locally stored file plays flawlessly (Solving 50% of the issue with the 1000)
• The same exceptional codec coverage – including some of the best A/V sync in the industry
• Hugely improved UI

See the basic page on AmperorDirect HERE. A good general overview can also be found there.

And best of all, the Amperor folks put together a very detailed “Things to Consider before you buy” page HERE.  I havn’t seen that kind of up-front honesty and detailed analysis of a new product in a long time.

The key seems to be that the HdX company in China is actively working on the new firmware since they took it on themselves for this upgrade instead of licensing a third party. It is not yet fully complete and there are definitely a few issues, but the product is clearly ready for prime-time and their work will only serve to make things better.

David

Next to “smell-a-vision”, 3DTV has long been the ultimate goal of the home theater enthusiast. I recall the thrill of the first 3D broadcast premier of “Creature from the Black Lagoon” using the old red/blue glasses and thinking what a technological miracle the slimy arms of the monster represented. Now, the thought of the blue bombshell with the erotic tail (from Avatar) in my own home – in 3D – makes my heart go pitter patter. If only it were that simple.

The best technology on the way uses special glasses that pass light alternately allowing each eye to get its own view – pretty straightforward. Obviously, the TV needs to support the technology and many are beginning to come on the market. The problem is that the vast majority of consumers buying flatscreen 3D TVs will be tragically dissapointed. Why? Turns out size really does matter – let me explain.

A typical home flatscreen setup is a 46″ to 55″ TV mounted on a wall 10-15′ from the viewing location. Very reasonable for “TV” – even 2D Blu-Ray. The bigger the better, obviously, but except for a more grandiose experience, anything over 50″ does not enhance the experience that much. Not so with 3D. The powers that be in the industry have come out with new recommendations, and while these “powers” are usually on the extreme side, this time they got it right. 3D requires a LOT more screen area to give you a good experience – 75% or more of your field of vision needs to be screen for 3D to be really immersive. So, just for fun, lets run those calculations. A typical TV room or home theater has a 12′ distance from screen to viewing location so lets use that for our example.

The recommendation then, is for a MINIMUM 93″ screen. Oops – 100″ flatscreens are not viable in most installations (and budgets) – meaning you are almost required to jump to projection. Is it really that different an experience if you don’t follow the recommendations – absolutely…

A really great experiment is to head down to your local home installer who has a 3D flatscreen set up – try the experience at 12′ away, then step right up – stand within 4′ of the screen and your eyes will pop.

Summary? Want 3D – go for a HUGE projection setup. Don’t bother with 3D on a flatscreen.

Why is it such a big topic? Mainly because Comcast has done such a poor job of explaining what they are doing and why. The best example so far? I was standing in a Comcast office recently and this poor guy came in with a stack (6) set top boxes that he had ripped out from all his TV locations. He said he had received a letter saying Comcast was going all digital and that he needed to get equipment for all his TVs to be able to view the new digital channels. What a huge waste of this guy’s time – having to rip them all out and then just put them all back when the lady behind the counter said he didn’t need to change anything… He was pissed, and all it would have taken was a little bit better consumer education.

Instead of the standard – almost unreadable – red screen saying Comcast is converting, how about putting up a simple 1 minute instructional video that repeats… Come in, I mean this really is not that hard.

Bottom line, we have tried to explain the “backside” of what the cable companies are doing – with a new set of webpages – why, how, when, and how much it will cost you… Check it out here.

If you want the condensed version, just check out the youtube video (but if you get hooked on the video you will go to the website anyway… It is an addiction.

The Vidock – Basically, it is an external box that plugs in via express card and can add a top of the line video card to your laptop. So halo and the latest games, you don’t have to buy a whole extra PC to run them.

Check it out at: http://www.amperordirect.com/pc/c-video-cards/audiovideo-ViDock_2_4670.html

Marketing at cable and satellite companies is now completely out of hand – you get about the same thing with any of them yet they insist on trying to compete with each other by making my life harder. The ONE distinguishing characteristic of cable (not having to have a set top box under every TV) is now gone. Just to keep what I have I now must pay Comcast MORE for renting a new cable box for every TV. Really?

Lets examine:

• Do I really need them to “add more bandwidth” so I can get another hundred worthless cable channels? NO
• Does my cable bill go up? YES
• Do people really like having extended basic cable service directly to every TV? YES
• And what did they replace my beloved SciFi channel with ?? You guessed it – QVC – again really?
• BOCS really does make it all better – yeah, I’m shameless, but it is exactly the feedback I’m getting from new customers!

Want more information – I just published a new page describing the whole conversion, what you have to do to get ready, and how to cope.

I also previously did a little presentation on why digital gives you more channels with some cool graphics to make the technology come to life.

Couple of quick comments on the “DTA” (the new little cable box) Comcast wants you to put on every TV:

1. It does NOT have a guide – you get channel up/dn and a very basic Comcast remote.
2. ONLY the new remote works with it – you need to reprogram any universal remote you have – see my XMP posts for more information
3. It does NOT have power off pass through – so if you want analog cable and/or BOCS with it you MUST use the RCA jacks.

So – Comcast… you suck, but like everything else, we Americans have a short memory. We will adapt and forgive you before our morning coffee. sigh…

DF

So, let’s start with the basics – most people are trying to get more information because they got a new Comcast DVR and suddenly neither their old Comcast remotes or their fancy universal remote will work with the new box. In fact, in many cases, a code does not exist in your universal remote nor can it learn the codes for the new box. Your first thought is, “What, are they insane? – putting out a system that completely cripples all my controllers dooming me to have to explain to my wife again how all the fancy toys are worth it when no one can even change the TV channel anymore…”

There are three “typical” remotes being handed out right now, and it is easy to tell the difference -

The one on the left is the standard Comcast remote and works all of the legacy Motorola and Scientific Atlanta Boxes. The old familiar black(SD) and Silver(HD and DVR) boxes as well as the newer “compact” SD box (Not the DTA) all work with the legacy remote only.These are the ones to look for…

Newer boxes – namely the Cisco RNG/PNG200 series and the latest Motorola boxes (look for the more square front ones)

and the new Mot boxes (the top one in this pic) use the newer XMP protocol (the middle remote above – the “dark grey one”)

The bottom box is a DTA – and uses a completely different remote… (The litle black one in the top picture)

One note, some of the newer Motorola DVRs will accept EITHER the legacy silver comcast remote or the dark grey one – A very nice thing indeed.

To decode a little, the silver remote uses a legacy code that nearly every universal remote already has in it and it is easily learnable.

The dark grey remote uses the XMP protocol and the DTA is different than both of them.

The XMP protocol is a new development from Universal Electronics – bottom line is that it functions much like a standard code but they tightened up the specs. Specifically the tolerances are such that without a patch, a standard universal remote cannot learn the codes. Why? because according to the older specs, it is ok to be a little sloppy – that rising edge of the pattern might be off by 7% or so and nothing in the system really cares. The new protocol has to be much more accurate. Here is the really fun part, most legacy UEI remotes cannot even learn the new codes. In their brilliance, UEI made it so they obsoleted many of their own remotes in the field.

Why would they do this? Opening the door for later two way communications is one good reason – future remotes that can actually receive data about what is being played and show it right in your hand – cool (but dont count on ever getting anything like that free from Comcast – are you kidding?)… More likely it is a competitive thing – what better way to step on UEI competitors than making it so that the latest cable systems won’t work with competitors products – because UEI has BOTH Comcast, DirecTV and Dish contracts as well as a very healthy stand alone universal remote  business. For shame.

And, Cisco implemented the remote receiver extremely poorly – even with a really good remote control, the suckiness of the Cisco box means you almost have to be right in front of it to change the channel – forget about changing the channel from the kitchen. Makes sense I suppose as Cisco is new to the business just having purchased Scientific Atlanta, and when one company buys another they always seem to know more about how to do things than the expert company they bought – this is the perfect example. My suggestion, if Comcast tries to hand you a Cisco box – refuse – demand Motorola.

As a side note, BOCS systems actually use a uEI chip and a simple firmware upgrade solves the issue (more suspiscion that this is a competitive strike), and like new DVD encryption that comes out periodically (like on the latest Twilight-New Moon DVD) it is quickly broken and systems are patched.

Bottom line – if you got a new dark grey comcast remote and your older universal will not work with your new set top box, go to your universal remote’s website and see if there is an upgrade – likely it will take a little work but you can do it.

I’ve collected a LOT of data and scope/screen shots of the new protocols and happy to share that with anyone that wants to take the next investigative step -

Good luck and don’t forget that with the new Comcast “going all digital” changeovers, there is no better way to get all your channels back than to install a new BOCS system.

DF

There is a Chinese company, Moyea, that has released a new version of their video transcoder software that at least offers some hope in this area. I’ve purchased previous versions of their software – specifically to convert my video camera files to flash (Check out my flash creation – I sneak out from behind an active BOCS demo on the virtual BOCS page). Their software is extremely easy to use and worked exactly as advertised.

But, there are a few issues: Getting video off of a TiVo is a real pain in the first place. For some reason, downloading video from a TiVo (Series 2 and beyond only) is about the most frustrating thing a human can do. It is basically only a real time transfer – meaning a one hour show takes an hour or longer to get it off the TiVo. They have posed plenty of excuses, but personally I think they did it on purpose – perhaps even at the request of the ever-evil MPAA. So once you get it off of a TiVo, run it through the Moyea conversion software (assume again at least real time kind of time to convert unless you have a screaming computer) and then the time to upload… Yes, you can share your stuff with a friend, but something like three hours of effort to share a 1 hour show? It better be a friend-with-benefits. All kidding aside, this is at least a good step in the right direction…

DF